Monday, March 8, 2010

Paris: Peace Out, 80s

Paris was all over the place. But if there is one definitive point to accept, it is that the 80s trend is over, and we can look forward to a 60s and 70s revival.

Giambattista Valli was my personal favorite for the day, with an undeniable early 60s influence in the silhouettes. The coats looked fresh with a nostalgic air; they seemed appropriate for Audrey Hepburn in a chase scene in Charade. The dresses were frothy and fun, and many of these looks seemed to hearken back to a sophisticated time of revelry (again, I'm envisioning Audrey Hepburn, but this time in the unforgettable New York party scene in Breakfast at Tiffany's). It wasn't all texturing and panelling though - some looks were paired with structured blazers. This dichotomy only managed to heighten the sex appeal.

Stella McCartney was all business. Nothing was short of sheer and chic modernity, and while some pieces were distinctively mod (largely due to some smart color blocking), there was nothing particularly retro about the collection. The clothes felt grown up and mature, catering less to a runway-frequenter and more to an Upper East Side set.

If Stella McCartney was serious, Yves Saint Laurent was flat-out sedated. Over sized hats flopped over models' faces like poorly-fit habits, and heavy gold chains laid against somber palettes like crucifixes. Stefano Pilati's show wasn't boring, though - the ensembles may have lacked color and vitality, but a real sense of drama was present: the 70s cuts, the unusual suiting accents, the hidden faces, the gloves, the capes.

Kenzo was wonderfully weird. Imagine a boho/hipster Diane Keaton in Annie Hall, artfully mixing hippie prints with men's suiting. A word of caution: be careful when styling this look. On one hand, you may seem free-spirited and quirky, on the other, the style may render you dateless till Spring 2011.

And Ungaro - oh, Ungaro. After the Lindsay Lohan debacle, the fashion house has desperately tried to make up for the poorly conceived and executed publicity stunt. Unfortunately for the gossip-lovers, the heart-shaped pasties were omitted from this season's collection. The pieces were structured better, but the show lacked vision. While other designers started exploring new silhouettes of modernity and maturity, Estrella Archs seemed to still be stuck in the 80s, and the look just seems tired and played out. Uninspiring, to say the least.

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1 comment:

  1. 你要保守你的心,勝過保守一切,因為一生的果效是由心發出..................................................