Tokyo Fashion Week Highlights

I really enjoyed Somarta's RTW Fall 2010 collection; it was sumptuous, dramatic, and full of sensual textures. I really loved the high boots coupled with the lace stockings - definitely on my radar for the fall. Tamae Hirokawa's brocade skirts really struck a cord with me as well. There was something ultimately dark and moody about this collection, and I would love to see the inspiration boards, since I couldn't quite figure out the connection between the horned hairstyle and the rest of the collection. The metal heels on the shoes were an awesome touch, although the accessorizing did tend to venture into slightly costume-y territory.

All images via WWD.com.

Paris: Peace Out, 80s

Paris was all over the place. But if there is one definitive point to accept, it is that the 80s trend is over, and we can look forward to a 60s and 70s revival.

Giambattista Valli was my personal favorite for the day, with an undeniable early 60s influence in the silhouettes. The coats looked fresh with a nostalgic air; they seemed appropriate for Audrey Hepburn in a chase scene in Charade. The dresses were frothy and fun, and many of these looks seemed to hearken back to a sophisticated time of revelry (again, I'm envisioning Audrey Hepburn, but this time in the unforgettable New York party scene in Breakfast at Tiffany's). It wasn't all texturing and panelling though - some looks were paired with structured blazers. This dichotomy only managed to heighten the sex appeal.




Stella McCartney was all business. Nothing was short of sheer and chic modernity, and while some pieces were distinctively mod (largely due to some smart color blocking), there was nothing particularly retro about the collection. The clothes felt grown up and mature, catering less to a runway-frequenter and more to an Upper East Side set.



If Stella McCartney was serious, Yves Saint Laurent was flat-out sedated. Over sized hats flopped over models' faces like poorly-fit habits, and heavy gold chains laid against somber palettes like crucifixes. Stefano Pilati's show wasn't boring, though - the ensembles may have lacked color and vitality, but a real sense of drama was present: the 70s cuts, the unusual suiting accents, the hidden faces, the gloves, the capes.



Kenzo was wonderfully weird. Imagine a boho/hipster Diane Keaton in Annie Hall, artfully mixing hippie prints with men's suiting. A word of caution: be careful when styling this look. On one hand, you may seem free-spirited and quirky, on the other, the style may render you dateless till Spring 2011.



And Ungaro - oh, Ungaro. After the Lindsay Lohan debacle, the fashion house has desperately tried to make up for the poorly conceived and executed publicity stunt. Unfortunately for the gossip-lovers, the heart-shaped pasties were omitted from this season's collection. The pieces were structured better, but the show lacked vision. While other designers started exploring new silhouettes of modernity and maturity, Estrella Archs seemed to still be stuck in the 80s, and the look just seems tired and played out. Uninspiring, to say the least.



All images via Style.com

And The Winner Is...Penelope Cruz

I think it's safe to say that style-wise, this year's Academy Awards was a bit of a buzzkill. Jennifer Lopez looked like she was swathed in a bed spread in Armani Prive, Charlize Theron's Vera Wang ensemble was a chesty mess, and even the evening's leading lady - Sandra Bullock in Marchesa - just looked safe, albeit pretty.

Penelope Cruz, however, was a knockout. In all honesty, I am terribly biased: I firmly believe that she is one of the most uncommonly beautiful women in Hollywood, and she has enough attitude and fire in her personality to pull off even the most dramatic looks.

In her crimson Donna Karan dress last night, she was a vision, and out-shined many of the other starlets.

Of course, Penelope Cruz is known for wearing dramatic dream-worthy gowns: Remember the iconic blush Atelier Versace gown at the 2007 Academy Awards?

Top Image Getty via Aol.com, Bottom image via Instyle.com.

Dolce + Gabbana Is Utterly Stunning

I read enough reviews about Dolce & Gabbana's stellar collection, but didn't get much of an opportunity earlier to really check out the images. It is absolutely incredible. I highly recommend checking out the full collection when you get a chance.

I thought I was really over the lingerie-inspired trend, until I saw this.

Images via NYMag.com.

Mario Moya Fall 2010 Collection

I got a chance to help out at the Mario Moya show, and I really loved his collection for the fall. The pieces were ultra-feminine and classic silhouettes with sexy accents. It was all film-noir Hollywood glamour, mixed with the definitive Parisian timelessness: perfect coiffures, rouged lips, winged eyeliner. Seeing the collection, I really felt that Moya was tapping into a romantic narrative without endangering his work by getting too costume-y.

I really enjoyed his Noir Powernet Monroe Dress. Moya works well with sheer accents; he knows how to use them to seduce subtly. The Noir Chiffon Femme Fatale Blouse with the Noir Wool Diamond Skirt was another personal favorite - the exposed back really sold me. It had a really great cut, and it looked stunning on the model. I think both this and the Citron Apocalypse Gown with the Citron Blaze Cape would photograph beautifully, and they would make really interesting editorial pieces.

See the full collection at Mario Moya.

Images by Jenna Gang.

Sartorial Sleight of Hand

I was lucky enough to attend the Prabal Gurung show during Fashion Week. I really liked some pieces, and I enjoyed the young designer's play with color blocking.

On a side note, I saw Anna Wintour at the show. And she was so cool. And maybe this is embarrassing to admit, but I felt like I had just seen a unicorn.

Check out my review on Urban Darling this week!

All images via Style.com

Ibrahim Ahmed and Resin Denim

I recently saw some work by up-and-coming artist Ibrahim Ahmed, and I loved it. I'm really fascinated by artists who tap into their heritage subtly without ramming an agenda down my throat. Ahmed's work is meditative, sensual, and quite beautiful.

Ahmed works with a lot of non-traditional media, i.e. windowpanes, that evoke a sense of spirituality and lightness. He's definitely tapped into his Middle Eastern influences in a fresh way - his windowpanes speak to the tradition of using stained-glass windows to lend a sense of light and warmth to architecture.

Ok, I'm getting a bit art-nerdy, and I apologize.

Interestingly, he's also got another pet project: he has designed the artwork for Resin Denim, a new label that is already being whispered about amongst those in the know (there was even a recent window display at Barney's). Ahmed did the work on the pocket designs and linen.

Of course, my initial thought was, "Why denim?" After all, a lot of artists do get involved in the fashion scene - but they tend to break in through magazines or women's wear. But upon further thought, it really makes sense. You can really see a sense of authenticity to the materials in Ahmed's artwork - simply constructed wooden window frames, glass, acrylic, metal. Resin is an organic artist's material.

And denim? Designing a great pair of jeans is, not to be too corny, a total art. After all, it is a simple workers' fabric that has been redefined and repurposed by the fashion world. Styling and accessorizing denim does not speak to the utter complexities of comprehending and working with this material.

Someone who understands denim must realize the singular importance of being authentic to this fabric and its history: the sense of movement and comfort it embraces; the strict understanding of style it necessitates. And frankly, I think we are all familiar with the harrowing aftermath of the recent ill-fated era of bedazzlement. From now onwards, I want the person designing my denim pieces to have a discerning eye - not some jewels, a hot-glue gun, and too much enthusiasm.

You can check out Resin Denim here. I can't wait to get a pair!






Top image compliments of Samer Fouad
Middle two images compliments of Michael McKeon
Bottom image compliments of Tyler Olsen